Helena Modjeska - the style icon

When in the late 1860s crinoline went out of fashion it seemed as if female clothes would gain more comfortable and functional quality. This was especially true given growth in this period of women emancipation movement demanding equal rights for women in education and employment. In France women were admitted for the first time to attend universities. However a couple of more decades had to pass before women status changed definitely. Fashion of this period also did not foster yet an active lifestyle and professional work. Ornamental, richly decorated and very feminine dresses were very different from men’s clothes sewn from fabrics in dark, subdued colors.

Admittedly a wide crinoline restricting movements had been replaced by a skirt that was flattened from the front and tapered on sides with folds collected on the back on top of a small semicircular steel cage-like framework or on top of a horsehair pillow – called bustle but even this limited stiffening while wearing a long skirt restricted movements and impeded things like traveling by train or using ever more popular in Europe city public transport. Movements were also greatly restricted by corset. Since in 1870s and 1880s special importance was placed on tightness of female waist it was being formed starting with girls as young as ten. This resulted in inhibition of development of internal organs and consequently in weaker physical condition and health problems. The requirements of fashion were merciless, an ideal wasp waist should be 45 cm.

Despite attempts to bring some changes a bustle stayed in fashion with a few years break for two decades. During so called first bustle period till around 1876 in fashion were skirts passing on the back in train and completed with an additional tunic, draped on the back in three folds following pattern of rococo polonaise design. With passage of time drapes increased and were more fancy and the whole rich decoration of skirt among others with ribbons, tassels or mock flowers was fixed at the back. Just like during crinoline period bra remained modest – as a rule it was plain, cut to the neck and completed with a small ruche at the neck. Narrow sleeves were already sewn on natural height. Hairdos had changed as well. Hair were being combed on the sides of the head above ears and pinned up high on the back as bun or as curls falling cascade-like on the neck. Small bangs were left over forehead. Hence a flat bonnet kapotka also had to be replaced by either a small round hat pinned up in front and slightly covering forehead or by resembling a box of chocolates mob cap decorated with laces which was worn on top of the head.

New inventions this time from the field of chemistry had a big impact on fashion of the period. Invention of synthetic dye led to dresses in intense colors such as violet and amaranth coming into fashion in 1870s.

Around year 1876 bustle went out of fashion for a couple of years and a period of so called ‘narrow fashion’ began. Especially fashionable was exceptionally feminine, well fit to the waist and hips princeska type of dress sewn with no cut in waist line. It emphasized waist, hips and breasts. Narrow skirt was supplemented by drape around hips and a small train in the shape of pigeon’s tail.

Bustle did not give up however and in slightly modified form returned in 1882. Its second version had slightly different form from the first one. To emphasize smooth transition between slender wasp waist and rounded hips which come into fashion alongside princeska type of dress it was placed slightly lower but more arched upwards than before. Rich drapes as skirt decorations still remained in fashion, they were on the whole made of another kind of fabric than the skirt, which was differentiated by color, pattern or texture. Narrow sleeves three quarter height were sewed in at arms and a plain tightly fit bra was being finished with a small collar, tightly covering neck. When wearing a ball dress with a deep decolletage, neck was being covered by a strip of black velvet or a necklace and a bare arms covered by long glows.

In the second half of 1880s drapes over skirt and bustle itself were gradually decreasing and around 1888 they went out of fashion altogether – this time round for good. In the 1880s aspirations for emancipation and changes in women life style were reflected in fashion by the appearance of a skirt suit. It was a more practical type of dress, comfortable and elegant two part equivalent of men’s suit consisting of skirt and fitting jacket. In the following decades it achieved ever greater success.